Mark Bittman’s Tamales

Mark Bittman’s Tamales
Sam Kaplan for The New York Times. Food stylist: Suzanne Lenzer.
Total Time
1 ½ hours, plus soaking time for the husks
Rating
4(299)
Notes
Read community notes

Making tamales doesn’t have to be difficult. With a little planning, you can have this traditional treat at hand. Start the night before, setting the husks to soak overnight. The next day, mix the masa marina with some chicken stock, lard, salt and baking powder. Lay the mixture onto the husks along with shredded meat, wrap and steam them in a rack. It’s a perfect project for the intermediate home cook, hoping to broaden a skill set. If it feels like a lot, invite a friend over, crack open a couple of beers and make it a party.

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Ingredients

Yield:24 tamales
  • 24dried corn husks
  • 3½ cups masa harina
  • 2¼ cups chicken stock, approximately
  • 1cup lard, cut into cubes
  • 1teaspoon salt
  • 1teaspoon baking powder
  • 1½ cups Shredded Red-Chile Meat (see recipe)
Ingredient Substitution Guide
Nutritional analysis per serving (24 servings)

611 calories; 16 grams fat; 5 grams saturated fat; 0 grams trans fat; 6 grams monounsaturated fat; 4 grams polyunsaturated fat; 106 grams carbohydrates; 10 grams dietary fiber; 1 gram sugars; 16 grams protein; 196 milligrams sodium

Note: The information shown is Edamam’s estimate based on available ingredients and preparation. It should not be considered a substitute for a professional nutritionist’s advice.

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Preparation

  1. Step 1

    Soak husks in warm water for at least 3 hours or overnight. Drain, separate the husks, then continue soaking.

  2. Step 2

    Put the masa harina in a bowl, and add stock a little at a time until the mixture is crumbly.

  3. Step 3

    With a mixer, beat the lard, salt and baking powder until light. Add the masa mixture, and continue to beat until the dough is fluffy, adding more stock if needed. The mixture is ready when a small ball of it floats in water.

  4. Step 4

    Drain a husk, and pat dry. Spread 2 tablespoons of the masa dough in the center of the husk, then wet your fingers and pat into a 4-inch-by-3-inch rectangle along the right edge of the husk, leaving at least 2 inches on each side. Put 1 tablespoon of the shredded meat lengthwise down the center of the dough rectangle. Wrap by folding the rectangle in half and bringing the right side of the dough over the filling. Continue rolling tightly to the end of the husk, then secure one open end with string or strips of corn husk. Repeat with the remaining ingredients.

  5. Step 5

    Prepare a large steamer by setting a steamer rack about 2 inches above gently boiling water. Stack the tamales, seam down, on the rack. Cover, and steam until the filling is firm and comes away easily from the husk, about 45 minutes. Serve warm or at room temperature.

Ratings

4 out of 5
299 user ratings
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Private Notes

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Cooking Notes

Just made these (including the red-chili meat recipe with pork) and they turned out great! We recommend steaming for closer to an hour and 15 mins. Also, the instructions on assembling the tamales were a little confusing (and the tying seems unnecessary) so we looked up a really helpful video on you tube. It would be great if the nyt cooking team could create an instructional tamale video!

While this recipe yields tasty tamales, it is typical to use nearly a 2:1 ratio of masa to lard for a more authentic version. More importantly, using homemade stock from the meat filling will go a long way towards making the masa more flavorful.

These turned out perfectly. Delicate yet firm once cooled a bit. I used unsalted butter instead of lard without any trouble. Managed to make the dough without a mixer, though doing so took determination. Also, the trick to checking for adequate moisture in the dough (does it float) is on point. Lastly, my tamales took about an hour to steam. I then unwrapped them to let them set up for a few minutes.

Great, practical, fast recipe. Being as we don't eat pork, I resorted to my work around and got excellent results with duck fat (which is an amazing alternative to lard.) I did blend it with a bit of butter and olive oil but used mostly duck fat and as others noted, increased the ratio. Other lard work-arounds for us include high-quality peanut oil (for flavor) high-quality coconut oil in various combos. There are ways around lard. Used smoked duck meat with red chili sauce. Awesome.

I've tried several versions of tamales and can attest that they are best with a higher proportion of lard to masa, and made with the broth used to cook the pork. At one time I tried with vegetable oil - very disappointing and required a sauce. Good tamales should be edible "straight".

It is key to get fresh lard, not the hydrogenated kind. Some butchers will sell rendered leaf lard. It is not terribly difficult to render it oneself.

We use organic unrefined coconut oil. I really like the flavor this adds, whether for these savory, meaty tamales, or for sweeter tamales with fresh corn, cheese, and/or green chiles (hatch chiles are my favorite)... If you use the coconut oil be sure it is cool enough that your oil is a solid at room temperature, so that the step in the recipe where you whip the fat with the salt and baking powder doesn't result in an oil slick. :D

Reading over the ingredient list, I must confess I was puzzled by one item....Masa marina. A thickener for nautical cooks?

Masa marina is a quite rare ingredient. You'll probably never see it nor will you ever understand it.

The first time I made this, I stripped the meat off of a half rack of leftover ribs and used that. It worked! Everyone loved it. The second time, my vegetarian granddaughter was here, so I used Knorr tomato bouillon to make a vegetable stock base and cooked it with a small whole unpeeled yellow onion and a carrot and the tops of a celery bunch. I let cool, then strained it. I cut the kernels from two cobs of corn and added it (raw) to the masa dough along with the stock. It was good, too

Used leftover bacon fat for the lard. The measurements across fat and stock aren't critical. In the end, you want a dough that you can spread over a husk, so that may involve wetting your spatula with water.

Anyway, this recipe and my personal experience affirms that tamales are not rocket science, nor do they necessitate a family reunion for a production line. Preparing the dough and the filling on different days to help spread out the labor is not a new idea!

i would only add that there are youtube videos describing the fold... I made my tamales with leftover boneless & stuffed turkey breast; proportion of ingredients was accurate. Maybe a heresy the filling i used, sharing just to show the versality of these tamales, corn flour (masa harina) is king. I choose the brands that are faithful to the nixtamalization.

masa harina is instant corn masa mix. Here in Texas our grocery stores carry it. Make a is the brand most common and you want the version labeled “tamal” for tamales. ( there is another version for tortillas)

This recipe is great! Makes very delicate tamales. If you have an instant pot, I recommend cooking on manual for 38 minutes using a steam rack and a cup of water. Additionally, if you use the red meat recipe, use the leftover stock produced there for extra flavor!

I followed the recipe exactly and the result was amazing. Great tip to make sure to go a little heavier on seasoning the meat prior to assembling the tamales - it yielded a great balance of savory, rich filling with the classic taste of the masa. Really excited to try this with lamb next. Thank you for the fabulous recipe!

Masa marina=masa harina

This recipe makes 16 regular-sized Mexican tamales of the size sold at my local Mexican market. Combining this with the red chile meat recipe yields approximately the right ratio of meat to chile, but I would suggest adding a little bit more meat than the recipe calls for.

Not having easy access to lard, I made these using coconut oil. I also used blue corn masa. My dough never floated, I tried adding more fat and liquid, but it just never happened and I grew impatient. After steaming for 45 minutes, they were perfectly cooked and tender, enough to totally unwrap and hold by its end to eat with your hands. Delicious!

From what I've read elsewhere, the floating indicates that there's enough air in the dough and is most likely to happen when using freshly milled masa. Using dried masa, my dough briefly floats before slowly sinking to the bottom.

The first time I made this, I stripped the meat off of a half rack of leftover ribs and used that. It worked! Everyone loved it. The second time, my vegetarian granddaughter was here, so I used Knorr tomato bouillon to make a vegetable stock base and cooked it with a small whole unpeeled yellow onion and a carrot and the tops of a celery bunch. I let cool, then strained it. I cut the kernels from two cobs of corn and added it (raw) to the masa dough along with the stock. It was good, too

Reading over the ingredient list, I must confess I was puzzled by one item....Masa marina. A thickener for nautical cooks?

Masa marina is a quite rare ingredient. You'll probably never see it nor will you ever understand it.

Used leftover bacon fat for the lard. The measurements across fat and stock aren't critical. In the end, you want a dough that you can spread over a husk, so that may involve wetting your spatula with water.

Anyway, this recipe and my personal experience affirms that tamales are not rocket science, nor do they necessitate a family reunion for a production line. Preparing the dough and the filling on different days to help spread out the labor is not a new idea!

I don't eat red meat or pork. With what can I substitute lard? Thank you.

duck fat

We use organic unrefined coconut oil. I really like the flavor this adds, whether for these savory, meaty tamales, or for sweeter tamales with fresh corn, cheese, and/or green chiles (hatch chiles are my favorite)... If you use the coconut oil be sure it is cool enough that your oil is a solid at room temperature, so that the step in the recipe where you whip the fat with the salt and baking powder doesn't result in an oil slick. :D

Kindly disregard. I see notes regarding substituting duck fat, etc. Thank you

Great, practical, fast recipe. Being as we don't eat pork, I resorted to my work around and got excellent results with duck fat (which is an amazing alternative to lard.) I did blend it with a bit of butter and olive oil but used mostly duck fat and as others noted, increased the ratio. Other lard work-arounds for us include high-quality peanut oil (for flavor) high-quality coconut oil in various combos. There are ways around lard. Used smoked duck meat with red chili sauce. Awesome.

I've tried several versions of tamales and can attest that they are best with a higher proportion of lard to masa, and made with the broth used to cook the pork. At one time I tried with vegetable oil - very disappointing and required a sauce. Good tamales should be edible "straight".

It is key to get fresh lard, not the hydrogenated kind. Some butchers will sell rendered leaf lard. It is not terribly difficult to render it oneself.

Any thoughts on substitutions for corn husks?

Banana leaves. Can be found frozen in many Latin and Asian stores. They are traditional and add a wonderful wonderful subtle flavor. We use them a lot. If you are really in a pinch, we have done it with parchment....but it is not as sturdy/durable as the leaves or husks.

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